Sichuan Peppercorns

Confession time: I was never a fan of Sichuan peppercorns. I just couldn't figure out what the fuss was and why book after book always insisted on adding the difficult little things to so many recipes. I was told to buy them whole and pan toast them and grind them — and for what? A metallic burn that gave food an off flavor?

Well, I've finally seen the light. I am now a huge fan of Sichuan peppercorns. This is what happened: last week my husband took me to Xiang Wei Lou, a Hunan restaurant in San Gabriel (CA). We order their famous steamed spicy fish. It's covered in the most amazing sauce, so complex, so balanced, so floral, and I'm thinking, where's that coming from? That floral back note that's making my little taste buds ohhhh and ahhhh? And it comes to me: OMG, it's Sichuan peppercorns. Sichuan peppercorns!

So now I realize that I've only been using crap Sichuan peppercorns. And so do most Chinese restaurants. If you get the really good kind, the fresh stuff you get in China, Sichuan peppercorns are like little taste fairies that will turn even humble ma po tofu into a delicacy.

So where do I get fresh, top-grade Sichuan peppercorns? HELP!