Okonomiyaki

Ah...just looking at this picture makes me want to whip up another batch of okonomiyaki. What is okonomiyaki? It's a big, fat savory pancake filled with vegetables and meat. In Japan, you can go to restaurants that specialize in okonomiyaki. Each table will have a large flat grill and the pancake is made right in front of you. Lots of fun. But you can also make okonomiyaki at home. It's pretty easy—in fact, learning to say okonomiyaki is the hardest part of the dish.

Recipes will vary greatly because you can add pretty much any ingredient to the basic flour batter. But I have found that one ingredient is pretty important: nagaimo (a.k.a mountain yam).  The yam won't add any flavor at all, but it will make the pancake light and almost cake-like.  I have to warn you that nagaimo takes a little getting used to. The raw vegetable is pretty darn slimy and trying to peel it (which you must) can be a bit tricky. The Japanese really enjoy slimy vegetables (okra is another favorite) and believe their mucilaginous properties are very good for your stomach. I don't mind slimy. And all the slime will have disappeared by the time you've cooked the pancake. Another odd property of nagaimo is that when you grate it, the yam instantly turns into a snot-like gel! Just bear with it and continue to grate in a very gentle manner (I find a Microplane is great for this). Interestingly, if you just slice it into large chunks and braise it in a stew, the nagaimo has the same texture as a potato.

As a guide, click here for a very dependable recipe from Harumi Kurihara, a popular cookery writer in Japan (she's known as the Martha Stewart of Japan). Warning! The recipe calls for "taro". This is a translation mistake. What they really mean is nagaimo. You will not get the same effect using taro!

Going out to eat okonomiyaki is such a popular thing to do in Japan, many TV shows feature it in a scene or two. My favorite depiction of okonomiyaki feasting is in Kekkon Dekinai Otoko (The Man Who Wouldn't Marry). In the following clip, Abe Hiroshi demonstrates the perfect way to cook okonomiyaki.



KekkonDekinai06.2 2/4

Vivian | Myspace Video

Japanese Curry

Yes, the Japanese eat curry, but it's not like any curry you'll ever get in India or England. It's sweeter and usually thicker, more like a stew. My mom used to make Japanese curry all the time, so I never thought much about it. But lately, I've been learning a lot about Japanese curry and it's really very fascinating.

As I suspected, Japanese curry is a version of English curry. The truth is, there's no such thing as Indian curry. Curry, as most people know it, is an Anglo-Indian invention. It came to Japan around the early 1900s when Japan started modernizing. Of course, the reason they wanted to modernize was to be able to defend themselves against the European and American bullies. And they weren't going to be able to do that until they got a competitive military. And part of being competitive was beefing up its military men. Literally. They began feeding their men beef. But the men didn't like it. They'd been brought up eating fish, if they were lucky, and soy. Beef tasted foul. Smelled foul too. So how does one make beef more appetizing? The Japanese military looked towards the British navy. They fed their guys curry. What a great way to hide the stink of beef! (I have to add that I've read other versions but I think this is the right one.)

Beef, curry, and Western food soon began to spread to the populace at large. There were even restaurants dedicated to the stuff. But like the Japanese curry, all the dishes were catered specifically to Japanese palates. That's why you get the ketchup omelet rice dishes. And why Italian pasta dishes will be garnished with nori (Japanese dried seaweed). Curry, though, seems to have really won the heart of the average Japanese. I've heard that a Japanese housewife will serve curry at least once a week to her family. One of the reasons is that children really love it. I suppose it's a lot like how Italian spaghetti became so popular with American housewives.

Any Japanese housewife worth her weight in salt has her own special recipe. The basic recipe starts off with a stew made of beef, potatoes, carrots, and onions. To this a curry roux is added. Then the special secret ingredient, which can be any combination of Worcestershire sauce, pineapple juice, grated apple, cream, yogurt, etc.

The curry is served with Japanese rice and a side of Japanese pickles. The Japanese pickles really add fun. Oh—don't forget to bring the spoons in glasses of ice water. The icy spoon is supposed to make the curry less spicy.

Most housewives do not make their own roux. You can get store-bought like the S&B Golden Curry Sauce Mix (I've seen this brand in places like Safeway's and Ralph's). Using prepared roux is such a given, it'd never even occured to me to make my own. But then I found a curry roux recipe at Harris Salat's website and thought, why not?

If you're at all familiar with making roux, the recipe is very easy. You just add the curry powder to the roux with some stock. But let's face it: it's so much easier just to break off a cube of S&B and stir. I'll probably continue using S&B. The taste difference between homemade and store-bought wasn't that profound. Homemade roux resulted in a much more buttery dish, but you can always add butter. Of course, S&B contains palm oil, sugar, caramel, MSG, disodium guanylate...

Japanese Style Korean BBQ

In Japan, Korean BBQ is called yakiniku. The meat is flavored for Japanese tastes, but the experience is pretty much the same: large platters of beef or pork grilled at the table. But I think things are changing. I just caught the end of a program that showed one Japanese restaurant serving individual portions of meat. Usually, at a Korean restaurant, you order a platter of a specific cut or part (marinated/unmarinated steak, ribs, tribe, etc.). So, unless you're with a large group, you only order one or two platters. But in Japan, people wanted to be able to order a piece at a time, like at a sushi restaurant, so they could eat a variety of meat. I've often wished that myself! This is such a great idea and hope Korean BBQ restaurants here in the US follow suit.

What I Just Cooked: Japanese-style Braised Pork

I wanted to make a pork stew, but with a Japanese twist, so I went to one of my favorite books, Japanese Cooking A Simple Art by Shizuo Tsuji. There aren't a lot of pork recipes in the book, but I did find something called Nagasaki-style Braised Pork. The recipe called for all sorts of things like bean curd lees and bacon and required two days of cooking. Not going to happen. So I just simplified it by using the basic simmering stock and throwing in whatever vegetables I had.

Braised Pork

About a pound of cut up chunks of pork shoulder (or butt as it's sometimes called)
About 4 small red potatoes cut into chunks
2-3 carrots peeled and cut into chunks
24 pearl onions, peeled

simmering liquid

3 1/2 cups dashi (I just put half a small packet of powdered dashi with 3 1/2 cups of water)
1 cup sake (I used the mei kuei lu chiew because I didn't have sake)
2 tablespoons of mirin (can be skipped)
6 tablespoons of soy sauce
5 tablespoons of sugar

Put the pork into a casserole pot and add the simmering liquid. Let it come to a boil. Skim impurities. Then add the rest of the ingredients and simmer for about 45 minutes.

Recipe adapted from Japanese Cooking A Simple Art.